## What is the Jonswap spectrum?

The JONSWAP spectrum is similar to the Pierson-Moskowitz spectrum except that waves continues to grow with distance (or time) as specified by the a term, and the peak in the spectrum is more pronounced, as specified by the g term.

### What is wave energy spectrum?

Wave spectra are used by oceanographers to describe the distribution of energy at different frequencies. The form of the spectrum can be related to wind speed and direction and the duration of the storm and the fetch (or distance upwind) over which it has blown,…

What are spectral moments?

Spectral moments (mean, variance, skewness, kurtosis) have been used to classify fricative place of articulation in English and other languages. Logistic regression is used to test the independence of fricative and vowel cues in syllable perception, and to model developmental trends.

What is water shoaling?

Definition of Shoaling: Shoaling is the deformation of incident waves on the lower shoreface that starts when the water depth becomes less than about half of the wavelength, causing the waves to become steeper: increase in amplitude and decrease in wavelength.

## What is 1/3 of the wave spectrum?

1. The significant wave height, H_s, is the mean of the highest third of the waves; instead of H_s the notation H_{1/3} is also often used. H_s represents well the average height of the highest waves in a wave group.

### What is peak wave period?

The peak wave period (in seconds) is defined as the wave period associated with the most energetic waves in the total wave spectrum at a specific point. Peak wave periods are contoured by isolating different swell events with a single line—not contouring at a specific interval as in other forecast graphics.

What is a speed wave?

Summary. Wave speed is the distance a wave travels in a given amount of time, such as the number of meters it travels per second. Wave speed is related to wavelength and wave frequency by the equation: Speed = Wavelength x Frequency.

What are the parameters of the wave spectrum?

The wave spectrum can be summarized to a reasonable accuracy using a small number of parameters. The most important are a measure of average wave height and period, followed by descriptors of directional properties. Wave height and period parameters are defined in terms of moments of the omnidirectional spectrum.

## Why is the Ochi Hubble spectrum called a two peaked spectrum?

This is why the Ochi-Hubble spectrum is often called a two-peaked spectrum; however in practice, the resulting total spectrum typically has only one peak (from the remotely-generated swell) plus a shoulder of energy from the local wind-generated sea.

### Why is there a scatter of wave spectra?

This ‘scatter’ is not due to inaccuracies of observation but to the fact that the sea states observed are at various stages of development and includes swell as well as sea components. The data can be combined in many ways. They can, for example, be averaged over the North Atlantic or world wide.